The whole idea of a crochet pattern is simply amazing. Someone, somewhere writes down some instructions (which, according to my husband, look like crazy symbols and alien-speak to everyone but crocheters) and suddenly people all over the world can make the same item! How awesome is that!?
The one thing that I’ve found patterns to be lacking in the past, though, is a little more flexibility. Every time I’ve come across a pattern that I absolutely adore, I’ve always found myself wishing to be able to make the same design with a different weight yarn….or maybe using a different size hook to help achieve a “lacier” style. Whatever the reason, it absolutely NEVER hurts to be able to use one pattern with any size of yarn or hook that you might dream up.
With this in mind, I’ve started changing the format of some of my newer designs – why not create more of a “Tutorial Pattern” and help you use that one skein in your stash that you’ve been absolutely drooling over for the past couple of months!?
I am thrilled to share my latest tutorial pattern – The Chevron Lace Romper Crochet Pattern (which can also be used for some pretty sweet Cowls or Infinity Scarves) with you here on The Crochet Crowd! I hope you love it as much as I do, and that you find many, many uses for it.
Comment on this post and let me know what you plan to make using this pattern and who you plan to make it for! I would LOVE to hear!
- Yarn: You can use any weight of yarn you would like for this tutorial. You will need approx. 120 yards of worsted (4) weight yarn for the smallest size romper. If you are using a thinner yarn, you will need more yardage, and a thicker yarn will need less yardage. I have included a chart below for you to fill in with approx. yardage requirements after making sets with different yarn weights.
- Yarn Yardage Chart:
Yarn Weight Yarn Type (US) Smaller Sizes Larger Sizes 0 or Lace Thread or Lace __________ __________ 1 or Superfine Fingering __________ __________ 2 or Fine Sport __________ __________ 3 or Light DK __________ __________ 4 or Medium Worsted 140 yards 300 yards 5 or Bulky Bulky __________ __________ 6 or Super Bulky Super Bulky __________ __________
- Crochet Hook: Use a corresponding hook size to the size of yarn you choose to use. Reference the “Yarn Weight Conversion and Suggested Hook Sizes Chart” on my website to figure out which size hook you should use based on the yarn weight you’ve selected.
- Yarn or Tapestry Needle
- Measuring Tape
Gauge is the first step to being able to work up a design for the correct size/age range without using a very specific pattern. Using the yarn and corresponding hook size that you have chosen above, work up an approx. 4 inch (10.25cm) by 4 inch single crochet stitch swatch.
Once you have worked up this swatch, measure how many stitches are in 2 inches (5 cm) and how many rows are in 2 inches.
Once you have your measurements, plug them into the following equations:
# of stitches over 2 inches (5cm) divided by 2 = number of stitches per inch (2.54cm).
# of rows over 2 inches (5cm) divided by 2 = number of rows per inch (2.54cm).
For easy reference, record these numbers on the chart located at the bottom of this post.
Once you have your number of stitches and rows per inch, you need to decide on what size of project you are making. This tutorial is perfect for cowls or infinity scarves as well as rompers. I have included a size chart for cowls and infinity scarves as well as each romper size from Newborn through 1-2 Years below:
Cowl: Cowls generally have a circumference slightly larger (1-2 inches) than the head circumference of the person you are making them for. An Adult Woman has an average head circumference of 21.5-22.5” (54.75-57cm) so the cowl circumference should measure approx. 22.5-23.5” (57-59.75cm) in circumference. The length of the cowl is up to you, but most people prefer big, thick cowls. With this design you’ll need to make a little extra length if you plan to wear it as a winter cowl. For a thicker cowl, I would recommend at least 24” (70cm) in length
Infinity Scarf: Infinity scarves are generally much longer and have more drape than cowls. If you prefer just one wrap of your scarf, then I would recommend an approx. 40” (101.5cm) circumference. If you prefer a double wrap I would recommend at least 65” (165cm) in circumference. The length of your scarf also depends on if you are doing a single or double wrap. If you prefer a single wrap, then an approx. 8” (20.5cm) length is a nice length. If you prefer double wrap, an approx. 6” (15.25cm) is a nice length.
|Romper Size||Average Chest Circumference||Approx. Length|
|Newborn||12-13″ (30.5-33cm)||11″ (28cm)|
|0-3 Months||13-14″ (33-35.5cm)||11.5″ (29.25cm)|
|3-6 Months||15-16” (38-40.5cm)||13″ (33cm)|
|6-12 Months||16-17″ (40.5-43cm)||14.25″ (36.25cm)|
|1-2 Years||17-18″ (40.5-45.75cm)||15.75″ (40cm)|
- CH: Chain
- TW: Turn Work
- SC: Single Crochet
- HDC: Half Double Crochet
- DC: Double Crochet
- TR: Treble Crochet
- DC2tog: Double Crochet the next 2 sts together (Double Crochet Decrease)
To Begin Your Project….
In order to begin your project, you need to figure out the width of one 16 stitch block of pattern.
The pattern follows the chart above.
- I used worsted (4) weight yarn and a size 5.5mm (I-9) Hook along with a gauge of:
- 8 sts and 8 rows = 2 inches (5cm) in Single Crochet.
- The chart shown above is the beginning of a Newborn sized romper in this pattern with that gauge.
To figure out how many chains to start with, work up the following pattern:
Row 1: SC into the second chain from hook, SC into each chain across, CH3, TW
Row 2: DC2tog (Double Crochet Decrease) using first two sts, DC2tog, CH1, skip one stitch, and DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch, (DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch, [CH1, skip one stitch, and DC into next stitch] two times, DC2tog, DC2tog (17 sts including turning chain)
After working up these first two rows, measure the width of your project across row 2.
Use the size charts listed above and plug that number into the following equation:
Desired Circumference of Your Project divided by width of the above block
Number of Blocks Needed To Make Your Project
See Example Below
- My 16 stitch block measured 4 inches (10.25cm). After referencing the size chart above, I knew that in order to make a Newborn sized romper, I needed the circumference of my project to equal 13 inches.
My equation was as follows:
13 inches (25.5cm) / 4 inches (10.25cm) = 3.25 blocks needed to be the appropriate size
For this pattern, we cannot work in ½ blocks. The number of stitches we are working with (not including the turning chain) MUST be divisible by 16. It is always safest to round your number of blocks needed up to ensure a good fit. I rounded up to 4 blocks needed.
For easy reference, record this number on the chart included at the bottom of this post.
Your Next Step
Now that you know how many blocks you need to achieve the proper size for your project, you need to find the starting number of chains.
Use this equation to find that number:
(Number of blocks needed multiplied by 16) = starting number of chains
In my example, I know I need four blocks, so I follow the below equation:
(4×16) = 64 starting chains
For easy reference, record this number on the chart included at the bottom of this post.
Now Start Your Project
Now it’s time to start your project! If you are comfortable following graphs, then use the graph listed on the last page to work up the first half of your project.
**This project is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker.**
If you prefer text instructions, then follow the instructions below:
- Chain 64 sts (or however many you came up with using the above equations)
- Join in the round by slip stitching the first and last chains together
Round 1: SC into each stitch around. Place marker in last stitch and move up each round. (64 sts in my example)
*Note: Always work into space created by chain – not the chain itself unless otherwise stated*
Round 2: [DC into first stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, *(DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch CH1, skip one stitch, [DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts, CH1, skip one stitch, [DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times* Repeat from *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch, [DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts, CH1, skip one stitch (64 total sts [or however many you chained] including turning chain)
*Note: Each peak or shell type stitch should be in the middle of the CH3 in the previous row. Each valley or DC2tog with 3 sts between should be worked over the bottom 3 sts in the valley. Keep this in mind as you are working so it will be easier to master the design*
Round 3: Slip stitch into first stitch, *[DC into the next ch1 space, DC into next stitch] two times, (DC, DC, CH3, DC, DC) into next ch3 space, [DC into the next stitch, DC into next ch1 space] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,* Repeat from *to* using the first stitch from round 3 as the second decrease stitch in the last repeat)
Round 4: CH1, skip the next st, [DC into next st, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, *(DC, CH3, DC) in next ch3 space, CH1, skip one st, DC into next stitch (this will be the first DC after the Ch3 space), CH1, skip one stitch, DC in next st, CH1, skip one stitch, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts, CH1, skip one stitch, [DC in next st, CH1, skip one stitch] two times* Repeat from *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch, [DC into next stitch, CH1, skip one stitch] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts, (use the first DC from round 4 as the second decrease stitch), CH1, skip one stitch.
Round 5: *[DC into the next ch1 space, DC into next stitch] two times, (DC, DC, CH3, DC, DC) into next ch3 space, [DC into the next stitch, DC into next ch1 space] two times, DC2tog skipping three sts in between the two decreased sts,* Repeat from *to* using the first stitch from round 3 as the second decrease stitch in the last repeat)
If you are making a cowl or infinity scarf, continue to repeat rounds 4&5 until your project measures the desired length. End on a repeat of round 5, cut yarn and secure and weave in all ends.
If you are working up a romper, refer to the chart below to find the length to crochet in chevron lace to.
Newborn: Chevron Lace to approx. 6.75” (17.25cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 10” (25.5cm)
0-3 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 7.25” (18.5cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 11” (27.94cm)
3-6 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 8.75” (22.25cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 12.5” (31.75cm)
6-12 Months: Chevron Lace to approx. 10” (25.5cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 13.75” (35cm)
1-2 Years: Chevron Lace to approx. 11.5” (29.21cm) and Single Crochet to approx. 15.25” (38.75cm)
Continue repeating rounds 4 & 5 until your piece measures the approx. length listed above for the Chevron Lace. End on a repeat of round 4. Then complete the following round before switching to Single Crochet.
Round 6: HDC into first two sts, SC into next two sts, *Slip stitch into next 5 sts (the chain sts), SC into next two sts, HDC into next two sts, DC into next stitch, TRC into next stitch, DC into next stitch, HDC into next two sts, SC into next two sts* Repeat from *to* to the last 12 un-worked stitches, and Slip stitch into next 5 sts, SC into next two sts, HDC into next two sts, DC into next stitch, TRC into next stitch, DC into last stitch (64 total sts or however many you chained)
Round 7: Loosely Single Crochet around OR go up one hook size to ensure loose sts
Continue to Loosely Single Crochet each round until your piece measures the approx. length listed above.
When you’ve reached the length listed above, SC around until you’ve reached the front of your project and mark that stitch (the front should be marked by the valley between two ridges). Divide your starting number of chains by 2 (for my example, I would have 32 sts because I started with 64 chains) and SC that many times around (including the front stitch). At this point, slip stitch into the stitch marked as the front of your project and SC each stitch around this section for approx. .5 inch (1.25cm) or however long you prefer your romper legs to be.
Move to the second leg and do the same.
Cut yarn and secure and weave in all ends. If necessary, use your yarn or tapestry needle to sew up and close the small hole in the crotch section.
Add ties to your project by connecting your yarn at the top of two peaks and chaining to whatever length you prefer your ties to be. I made mine approx. 12” (30.5cm) each in length for a Newborn romper. Cut, secure, and weave in all ends.
# of stitches per inch using a ___________weight yarn and a size _________ hook = _______
# of rows per inch using a ______________weight yarn and a size _________ hook = ______
# of 16 stitch blocks needed to make ________size project using Figure A’s gauge = _____
# of starting chains for the above gauge, and size project = _________________
Hope you love, love, love this free pattern! Don’t forget to comment and let me know what you think <3
Melody Rogers – Knot Just Yarn Blog Guest Blogger
Drop by now and say hello at Melody’s Makings!
If you love this free pattern, please share it with your crafty friends!