Crochet the Fall Humdinger Pumpkin, using the Red Heart All In One Granny Square yarn in the extension brand Grande to colour the pumpkin itself. There is no fuss, just pure creativity unleashed on your crochet hook. The colour shown is called Humdinger, and you will use about 75% of the ball to make it.
The design intention is to let the natural folds created by the stitchwork appear natural. The perfect pumpkin shape is rarely found, as pumpkins have their own personality and flair. If you overstuff it, it will look like a typical pumpkin shown in magazines as perfect, but I challenge you to let it be more natural-looking.
Red Heart All In One Granny Square Grande, 250g / 8.8 oz, 402 meters / 440 yards
- A = Humdinger- 1 Ball
Scrap yarn quantity.
- B = Taupe
Scrap yarn quantity.
- C = Lettuce
Hooks 4.5 mm / US 7 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge 14 sc and 16 rows = 4” [10 cm]
Measurement 12” diameter x 5” high without stem.
Abbreviations
- Beg = Begin(ning)
- Ch(s) = Chain(s)
- Dc = Double crochet
- Dc2tog = Double crochet 2 together
- Dcfp = Double crochet front post
- Join = Join with slip stitch to the beginning stitch of the round.
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right side
- Sc = Single crochet
- Sc2tog= Single crochet 2 together
- Scbp = Single crochet back post
- Scfp = Single crochet front post.
- Sk = Skip
- Sl st = Slip stitch
- Sp(s) = Space(s)
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- WS = Wrong side
Notes
The start of the pumpkin is considered the top of the pumpkin.
The pumpkin technically has five sides. I highly recommend using stitch markers to indicate the repeat around so you don’t accidentally miss it. (I did during the prototype and had to frog back eight rounds. It matters.)
For most rounds, you must turn and return to the other direction on the wrong side to ensure the lines stay vertical in the pumpkin. Turns will be noted at the end of instructions when needed. 
With A, ch 4. Sl st in beg ch to form ring.
1st row: RS. Ch 1. 10 sc in ring. Join. 10 sc.
2nd rnd: Ch 1. (1 sc, 1 dc) in first st. (1 dc, 1 sc) in next st. *(1 sc, 1 dc) in next st. (1 dc, 1 sc) in next st. Rep from * around. Join. 20 sts.
3rd rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same st as join. (2 dc in next st) twice. 1 sc in next st. *1 sc in next st, (2 dc in next st) twice, 1 sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join. 30 sts.
TIP: The shape will really buckle and feel wrong. We want to ramp it up to the pumpkin shape quickly.
TIP: Place your stitch markers between the 2 sc between the repeats around. Move them up each time you pass them to keep track of them.
4th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same st as join. (2 dc in next st) four times. 1 sc in next st. *1 sc in next st. (2 dc in next st) four times. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join. 50 sts.
5th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st around. Join. 50 sc.
TIP: When inserting the double crochet into the spaces in the next instruction. Go directly through the space.
6th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in same st as join. 1 dcfp around the dc 2 rnds below. 1 dc in the sp between before the next dc 2 rnds below. (1 dcfp around next dc 2 rnds below. 1 dc in the space before the next dc 2 rnds below.) 6 times. 1 dcfp around next dc 2 rnds below. 1 sc in next sc. *1 sc in next sc. (1 dcfp around next dc 2 rnds below. 1 dc in the space before the next dc 2 rnds below.) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dc 2 rnds below. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. Join. TURN. 85 sts.
7th rnd: WS. Ch 1. 1 sc in each st around. Join. Turn. 85 sc.
TIP: The double crochet front post counts as the stitch in front of it in the rnd below.
8th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 scbp around first sc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 2 sc in next st. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 2 sc in next st) 6 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around the next sc. * 1 scbp around next sc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 2 sc in next st. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 2 sc in next st) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around the next sc. Rep from * around. Join. Turn. 120 sts.
9th rnd: WS. Ch 1. 1 scfp around first scbp below. 1 sc in next 22 sts. 1 scfp around next scbp below. *1 scfp around next scbp below. 1 sc in next 22 sts. 1 scfp around next scbp below. Rep from * around. Join. Turn. 120 sc.
10th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 scbp around first scfp below. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below, 1 sc in next 2 sc) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around next next scfp below. *1 scbp around next scfp below. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below, 1 sc in next 2 sc) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around next next scfp below. Rep from * around. Join. Turn. 120 sc.
Rep 9th and 10th rnds, 8 more times.
27th rnd: WS. Rep 9th rnd.
28th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 scbp around first scfp below. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below, 1 sc2tog over next 2 sc) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around next next scfp below. *1 scbp around next scfp below. (1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below, 1 sc2tog over next 2 sc) 7 times. 1 dcfp around next dcfp 2 rnds below. 1 scbp around next next scfp below. Rep from * around. Join. Turn. 85 sts.
29th rnd: WS. Ch 1. 1 scfp around first scbp below. 1 sc in next 15 sts. 1 scfp around next scbp below. *1 scfp around next scbp below. 1 sc in next 15 sts. 1 scfp around next scbp below. Rep from * around. Join. Turn. 85 sc.
Special Tog = You will be using the double crochet front post from 2 rnds below and the next sc as the legs of doing a special 2 together stitch. Yarn over, insert hook as front post around dcfp 2 rnds below. Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over pull through only 2 loops. Yarn over and insert hook into next sc. Yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through all three remaining loops to finish.
30th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 scbp around first scfp below. (Special tog st) 8 times. *1 scbp around next scfp below. (Special tog st) 8 times. Rep from * around. Join. 45 sts.
TIP: You will be skipping the scbp stitches in the next rnd.
31st rnd: RS. Ch 1. *1 dcfp around next special tog st. Rep from * around. Join. 40 dcfp.
32nd rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 dc in same st as join. 1 dc in next 7 dc. Dc2tog. *1 dc in next 8 dc, dc2tog. Rep from * around. Join. 36 dc.
Begin stuffing the pumpkin and continuously fill as you go.
33rd rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 dc in same st as join. 1 dc in next 3 dc. Dc2tog. *1 dc in next 4 dc, dc2tog. Rep from * around. Join. 30 dc.
34th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 dc in same st as join. 1 dc in next 2 dc. Dc2tog. *1 dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog. Rep from * around. Join. 24 dc.
35th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 dc in same st as join. 1 dc in next dc. Dc2tog. *1 dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog. Rep from * around. Join. 18 dc.
36th rnd: RS. Ch 1. 1 dc in same st as join. Dc2tog. *1 dc in next dc, dc2tog. Rep from * around. Join. 12 dc. Cut yarn 18” long yarn tail to do the shaping.
Catch the remaining stitches and pull the hole closed.
Pumpkin Shaping and Finishing
Keep in mind that the beginning of these pumpkins
is the top of the pumpkin.
- Place the needle with the long yarn tail directly in the middle of the hole and feed it through the pumpkin to pop the needle out of the top of the pumpkin hole.
- Catch the hole's edge and then return to the bottom of the pumpkin on the inside.
- Pull on the string to pull down the top of the pumpkin so it sinks in.
- Determine how far you want the sink to go, secure the tail strand with a tie, and weave in the ends.
- The stem will hide the yarn that came up to pull the centre down.
Pumpkin Stem
With B, ch 11.
1st row: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each chain across. Turn. 10 sts.
2nd to 7th rows: Ch 1, using back loops only across,1 sc in each st across. Turn. 10 sts.
Fasten off leaving 24” [61 cm] yarn tail.
Stem Finishing
Roll the stem so the long sides are touching each other. Favour just one loop closest to each other while doing the whip stitch to make the seam invisible.
Whipstitch along both edges so it forms the step into a cylinder shape. Once across, gather the sides of the rows to pull them closed. This is the top of the stem. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew the stem to the top of the pumpkin. Do not stuff the interior of the stem. You will be able to bend the stem with a curve, and it will hold its shape.
Curly Vines
When fastening off, leave longer tails to sew to the base of the pumpkin stem. The large pumpkin has all three vine sizes.
With C, make three vines in different sizes.
Vine 1 - Ch 27. Vine 2 - Ch 21. Vine 3 - Ch 15.
1st row: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 3 sc in each ch across. Fasten off.
Sew each vine to the base of the stem where you think it looks the best. Use pictures of projects for an idea.
Don’t overstuff the pumpkin for staging, as pumpkins are meant to have their own personalities. It’s designed with that in mind. The design will allow you to squish areas for odd-shaping, which feels more realistic for pumpkins. However, you are the artist, shape the way that gives you the most joy.
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Try Another Couple of Pumpkin Designs
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