Crohoodie Crochet Hood & Cowl Combo

Crohoodie Crochet Cowl and Hoodie Combo by Nancy Elliott
Crohoodie Crochet Cowl and Hoodie Combo by Nancy Elliott
Crohoodie Crochet Cowl and Hoodie Combo by Nancy Elliott

The Crochet Hood and Combination called Crohoodies, designed by our official tester, Nancy Elliott is a fabulous gift idea.

There was a request from crocheters to change the Crochet Toodie to not have a pointed back part of the hood and round it off.

Nancy took on the challenge and used her own thoughts to work into a Crochet Hoodie Cowl Concept.

Crochet Mikey Toodie
Crochet Mikey Toodie

Yarn & Sizing

Loops & Threads Barcelona Big (8.8 oz/250g; 410 yds/375m)

  • 2 Balls – Tapestry

I used approximately 300 g of yarn to make this Crochoodie.  This pattern is completely adjustable without any specific gauge to match.  If you crochet on the tighter side, you’ll need a bit more yarn, if you crochet on the looser side, you can probably get away with less. 

  • Tapestry needle.
  • Fits the average adult. 
  • Size U.S. J/10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook (for hood portion)
  • Size U.S. H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook (for neck portion)

Abbreviations

  • Alt – alternative
  • Blo – back loop or back loop only
  • Bpdc – Yoh and draw up a loop around post of next stitch at back of work inserting hook from right to left. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice
  • Ch – Chain(s)
  • Dc – Double crochet
  • Fpdc – Yoh and draw up a loop around post of next stitch at front of work inserting hook from right to left. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice
  • Mr – magic ring
  • Pm – place marker
  • Rep – Repeat 
  • Rs – right side
  • Rnd(s) – Round(s) 
  • Row(s) 
  • Sc – Single crochet 
  • Sl st – Slip stitch 
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)
  • Ws – wrong side
Crohoodie Back and Side
Crohoodie Back and Side

Instructions

Hood Portion – 6 mm / J Hook

1st rnd: Ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with sl st to first dc. (12 sts)

2nd rnd: Ch 2 (does not count as st). 2 dc in each dc around. Join with sl st to first dc. (24 sts)

3rd rnd: Sl st around first dc post.  Ch 3. 1 dcfp around same post as last sl st. 1 dcbp around next dc. *2 dcfp around next dc. 1 dcbp around next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (36 sts)

4th rnd: Sl st around first dcfp. Ch 3. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dcbp around next dcbp. *1 dcfp around each of next 2 dcfp. 2 dcbp around next dcbp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st top of ch 3. (48 sts)

5th rnd: Sl  st around first dcfp. Ch 3. 1 dcfp around same post as last sl st. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcbp around each of next 2 dcbp. *2 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcbp around each of next 2 dcbp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (60 sts)

6th rnd: Sl st around first dcfp. Ch 3. 2 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcbp around each of next 2  dcbp. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dcbp around each of next 2 dcbp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. (72 sts)

7th rnd: Ch 1. 2 sc in same sp as sl st. 1 sc in each of next 5 sts. *2 sc in next st. 1 sc in each of next 5 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off. (84 sts)

In order to get a “rounded, rather than pointed” hood we will need to transition the circle into rows to form the top and sides of the hood.  

Count 72 sts around and PM around that st before continuing.  Also PM into the top of each ch2 at each end (and move them up each row as you proceed)

1st row: RS. Ch2. Alternate between fpdc and bpdc into each st across, placing last bpdc around the 72nd st. Turn (72 sts)

2nd row: WS. Ch2, alt bpdc and fpdc across, hdc into ch2. Turn (73 sts)

3rd row: RS. Ch2, alt fpdc/bpdc to end, hdc into ch2. Turn (73 sts)

4th row: WS. Ch2, alt bpdc/fpdc to end, hdc into ch2. Turn (73 sts)

Note: I made my hood so it’s a little longer in the front.  If you want a shorter (closer to your head) front you can omit Rows 11-17, or customize to your liking by trying it on after completing Row 10. Alternately, you can also lengthen it by adding more rows by repeating rows 3 and 4 as needed.  Do not fasten off at the end of the last row, we will transition into the cowl/mask piece.

Continue in pattern as follows:

Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 and 17 – repeat row 3.

Rows 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16 – repeat row 4 .

Crohoodie Side View without Cowl
Crohoodie Side View without Cowl

Change to 5mm hook. We will now be transitioning into the cowl/mask portion of the pattern and for the first row you will be working your sts into the ch2 spaces from the rnds above sideways. 

Note: If you’ve added/subtracted rows in hood portion you will need to adjust the number of sts you will work along the neck edges accordingly.  Make sure you sc and “uneven” number of sts. (e.g.: 67,69,71,73, 77, 79, 81 etc.)

Cowl Portion 5 mm / H Hook

Crohoodie Neck Edging
Crohoodie Neck Edging

1st rnd: Ch 1, and continue into neck edge (see pic) doing 2sc into each ch2 space along the first neck edge, 1sc into each st along the back edge and 2sc into the other side’s neck edge, join to sc on other side of edge. Turn (75 sts)

2nd rnd: WS. Ch1, 1sc into each st across, join with a sl st to first sc. Turn (75 sts) 

3rd rnd: RS. Ch2 (does not count as a st) 1dc blo (this rnd only) into each sc around, join with sl st to first dc. (75 sts)

4th rnd: Ch2, fpdc into first dc of rnd 3, bpdc into next dc. *Fpdc into next st, bpdc into next st. Rep from * around, ending with a fpdc, join with sl st to first fpdc. (75 sts) 

Note: The ch2 will “act as a bpdc and fill in any potential “hole” between the first st and last st.

5th rnd: Rep rnd 4 until cowl/neck portion measures 8” (or desired length based on any customization).

6th rnd: Ch1, 1sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off, weave in end.

Note: You will always have the same amount of sts (75) or whichever number you customized your pattern too throughout the rest of cowl/neck portion.


More Ideas

  1. Crochet Baby Blanket and Booties Set Pattern
  2. Crochet Baby of Mine Hooded Blanket Pattern
  3. 137 Knit & Crochet Free Patterns

Yarnspirations Patterns
Free Pattern: Crohoodie by Nancy Elliott

Tutorial

Not available at this time.

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24 Comments

  1. Karen

    Not understanding the joining of the cowl to hoodie , I am doing the crohoodie , I learn better with pictures, and I am a lefty, please help , thank you.

    • Mikey

      Leave this with me. Another person asked for filming of it on YouTube. I haven’t decided yet.

  2. Nancy Ellio

    The measurement for the back circle (first 7 rnds of the pattern) on my original that is in the pattern is 16.5cm (6.5″) in width. This is using chunky yarn. I did not include a gauge or measurements because using the types of stitches that I did for the pattern makes it really stretchy and also because I only made the pattern using chunky weight (#5) yarn. Others have made the pattern using #4 worsted weight with the same hook size in the pattern and had theirs come out okay but I haven’t done one in that weight yarn. The hood portion folded in half and laying flat measures 11″ from chin to top of hood. I hope that helps 🙂

  3. Melanie Raymond

    Thank you for this pattern. I have been able to follow the pattern for the hood and cowl portion, I don’t see instructions on how to do the mask portion. I found Rev.3 dated 11/30/2021 and was hopeful the mask instructions had been added, but no luck.

    Please help so I can finish this.

    Thank you, Melanie

    • Mikey

      The ‘mask’ portion is the cowl portion referenced in the pattern. I double-checked the PDF and it’s on there as it’s written in long-form on the blog as well.

      • Melanie

        Thank you for clarifying that. I was using Rev. 2 of Nancy’s pattern and one of the photos looked like the mask was single crochet and not fpdc/bpdc. I continued to look at photos on the blog and figured it out. An instruction about folding cowl to the inside to form mask would have helped. I finished mine and wore it today walking my dog, worked great other than my glasses steaming up, but that’s nothing new with masks. Thanks again.

  4. Mary

    I’m confused. I’m at the final 2 rows of the cowl part but don’t see where you create the face covering part. Is there more ? When I printed this out there was 4 other pattern portions added to the 3 pages of this pattern. I have stopped at part where you are suppose to repeat till get 8” till I figure if this has face covering directions or not. First time trying on of these

    • Mikey

      The face covering is the cowl portion and yes, complete it until it is 8″ tall.

  5. Laura Ashe

    is there a pattern for this for toddlers?

  6. Mary

    I’m confused. Is there not instructions on doing the part that covers nose and mouth ? Just stops after you get the cowl . I thought by picture it would

    When I printed this there was 3 additional patterns not related to this in the download file.

    • Mikey

      The cowl portion is the face covering area. I am back from taking a couple weeks to myself. I will fix the PDF this coming week. I return to work tomorrow.

  7. Margaret Byrne

    A question I’m hoping someone can answer. I have a very small head. I have been known to buy and wear children’s hats because adult ones are too big unless they have a draw string. At what point should I stop increasing? I guess I’m asking how much of the back of my head should be covered before I start the rows.

    • Mikey

      I don’t have an answer for you on that but maybe stop 1 round short. You would be very surprised on how little of a change is needed to completely change a size.

  8. Terri Limbert

    Hi Mikey,

    When starting the cowl/mask portion, round 1 says to do 2sc in each chain 2 space at the ends of the rows, what about the back of the head bottom, do you put 2sc in those stitches as well? Not sure how to end up with an uneven number of stitches if you’re putting 2sc in each space? idk, am I not reading it correctly?

    • Nancy

      Hi Terri, My apologies for that round not being clearer. You will put 2sc into each ch2 space along the first side, then continue along the back edge with sc then up the other side with 2sc into each st. You can put 2sc into the back sts as well if you need, to get to the “uneven” number of sts.

  9. Gloria Schofield

    Hi Mikey,
    Think there is a glitch on row 7 of the cowl pattern. It tells you to do 2scs in the join st. Then it omits the number of sts.to do before you do another 2scs in the stitch following the number of stitches after the first 2scs. I have been putting 5 scs in between them seems to work out ok.

    • Mikey

      Thank you. It’s been corrected thanks for your heads up so we did a second look at it.

      • Cassie

        What’s the diameter of the back circle on the cowl? Mine is coming out as a kid’s size.

      • Mikey

        I will ask Nancy to see if she can measure her sample to check. I will check with her this coming week.

      • Sara

        I came here to ask the same question as Cassie. The size of the circle would be really helpful to know in order to make adjustments for gauge and fit. Thanks!

      • andi

        i think my question would be answered by this as well… i’m working through this pattern now and i’m concerned my face opening is too short. i’d have to undo a lot of work (and a couple balls of yarn) to go back and correct now… some measurements would be very helpful to know if i’m on the right track or not.

        regardless, thank you for the pattern 🙂 it’s a really cool concept and easy enough for an amateur like me to take on!

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