Learn how to make an asymmetrical shawl using Bernat Wavelength yarn. Let the transitions of this beautiful yarn do the magic.
With easy-to-follow instructions, you can make this any length you prefer.
Let's Get Started
Download the pattern or just read below.
Watch how to make this shawl and decipher the easy-to-follow pattern provided.
In This Project
Materials
Bernat Wavelength, 223 yds/ 204 m, 5 oz / 140 g.
Any Colour - 3 Balls
Mikey’s is Citron Marble, Peridot and Parfait
Hook: 5.5 mm / I/9
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rows = 4” [10 cm] to be checked.
Hook: 5.5 mm / I/9
Gauge: 13 sc and 14 rows = 4” [10 cm]
Size: 48” long at the middle spine and 40” wide at the widest point.
Beg = Beginning
Ch(s) = Chain(s)
Dc = Double crochet
Dtr = Double treble crochet
Prev = Previous
Rep = Repeat
RS = Right side
Sk = Skip
Sc = Single Crochet
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Sp(s) = Space(es)
Trfp = Treble crochet front post
Try a Different Version
Give this elevated yarn a fun look by using the saw-tooth pattern of the Crochet Asymmetrical Shawl.
Instructions
TIPS:
Don’t get into the reeds by skipping the placement of the stitch marker. You’ll save yourself grief and can speed a long quicker.
Using the first stitch of the row includes the stitch where the first chain starts.
Instructions
Ch 3.
1st row: (RS). 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook. 3 dc. Turn.
2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. Skip next dc. 1 sc in last dc. Turn. 2 sts.
TIP: Chain 4 counts as a stitch. Use the top of the chain 4 as a regular stitch.
3rd row: Ch 4. 1 dc in first sc. 1 trfp around next dc 2 rows below. PM on last st. (2 dc. 1 dtr) in last sc. Turn. 6 sts.
TIP: Skipping stitches is what creates the angled bend in the shawl.
4th row: Ch 1. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts. 1 sc in next dc. Skip marked st. 2 sc in each of last 2 sts Turn. 9 sts.
5th row: Ch 4. 1 dc in first sc. 1 dc in next sc. 1 trfp around trfp 2 rows below. PM on last st. Skip next 4 sc. 1 dc in each of next 2 sc. (2 dc. 1 dtr) in last sc. Turn. 9 sts.
6th row: Ch 1. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts. 1 sc in each dc to marked st. PM on last st. Skip marked st. 1 sc in next dc. 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. Turn. 12 sts.
7th row: Ch 4. 1 dc in first sc. 1 dc in each of next 2 sc. 1 trfp around trfp 2 rows below. PM on last st. Skip next 4 sc. 1 dc in each sc to last sc. (2 dc. 1 dtr) in last sc. Turn. 12 sts.
8th row: Ch 1. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts. 1 sc in each dc to marked st. PM on last st. Skip marked st. 1 sc in each dc to last 2 sts. 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. Turn. 15 sts.
9th row: Ch 4. 1 dc in first sc. 1 dc in each sc to 2 sc before marked st. 1 trfp around trfp 2 rows below. PM on last st. Skip next 4 sc. 1 dc in each sc to last sc. (2 dc. 1 dtr) in last sc. Turn. 15 sts.
Repeat the 8th and 9th rows for the duration of the project. Each repeat increases by 3 stitches.
In a short time, you may be able to ignore the stitch marker as you will understand what you are looking at and move along with ease.
When the first ball runs out, make sure it finishes at the end of a row. Start the new ball at the beginning of any row and continue. Do the same for the 3rd ball and finish off at the end of the 9th row.
Leave enough yarn on the end of the project to do one row of single crochet.
Last row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st to st before trfp. Sk trfp. 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Fasten off.
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