How to Crochet for Absolute Beginners: Step-by-Step Guide + Lots of Tutorials

In This Project

• Before You Begin
• The Wrong Yarn Tip
• Reducing Back & Neck Pain Tips
• Yarn Assumption Tip
• Step 2: Learn the Absolute Basics
• Step 3: Learn the Core Stitches
• Step 4: Learn How Crochet Actually Works
• Watch The Designer's Definition Tip
• Sizing Tip
• Save the Time Tip
• Step 5: Read Your First Pattern
• Step 6: Understand Crochet Diagrams
• Most of The World Tip
• Make Your First REAL Project - 4 Projects
• Project 1 - Beginner's Dishcloth
• Project 2: Simple Granny Square
• Project 3: A Basic Colourful Scarf
• Project 4: A Basic Crochet Hat
• Okay, I Can Crochet. What’s Next?
• Try Another Concept - C2C Master Crochet Workshop
• Show Mikey Your Version of This Project

Crochet is built for going vertical. Your starting chain is the canvas you are simulating, and from there, you continue to crochet on top of it. Whereas knitting is working the fabric horizontally.

Opening and Closing of A Stitch

In crochet, a stitch is created and closed instantly. Unlike knitting, where the loops gather on the needle, those stitches are considered 'live stitches,' and if you make a mistake, going back and fixing it is a real pain in the ass.

Because of the way stitches open and close, making mistakes and fixing them is pretty easy, but that also depends on the yarn choice.

Watch below how your hook creates a live loop, deals with it, and finishes it before moving on to the next stitch.

What Do You Need to Begin to Crochet?

You will need two things, yep, just a ball of yarn and one crochet hook. The hook and yarn choice will either make or break your joy immediately.

Hooks are said to be one of two things:

• Hooks designed for the machine to hold.
• Hooks designed for humans to hold.

I've been around long enough that when ergonomic hooks came out, people flipped out because the price point was steeper back then. Today, they are everyday hooks to be ergonomic, but though straight no-grip handles are still around.

Part of the pain in your hand will be the type of crochet hook you choose. If you choose a hook that isn't right for you, you may not realize that your struggle isn't you, but the tool you are holding.

I found that I hated knitting when I really started learning it back in 2020. It wasn't until a friend told me that the quality of a knitting needle dictates how it feels in my hand. I didn't think this would be true, as a needle is a needle, but it's not. I knew this was true for crochet, but never imagined it was the same for knitting. If you have tried knitting in the past and hated it, it may not have been you; it may have been your needles.

What you actually need to begin

Choose The Hook?

We have a list of all of the crochet hook sizes. The hook size is based on factors related to the crochet project itself.

• What hook size did the pattern call for?
• What did the ball band say for recommended hook sizes?
• What is your personal tension?

Like Harry Potter, where the wand chooses the wizard, it is the yarn that chooses the hook for the most part, unless you are doing something completely unique and outlining the boundaries of what is considered normal.

If you are in the yarn aisle, the crochet hooks are called "implements". It essentially means "handheld tools." The hook sizes are labelled on the packaging, and most larger manufacturers have the size engraved, printed, or raised on the hook so you can remember its size.

The hooks generally have two labels: metric size in millimetres and a letter. Of the two pieces of information, millimetres are more accurate, as some companies can label the hooks with a letter but not use the same unit of measure.

In countries that use the metric system, such as Canada, you will be looking at millimetres, but for our USA friends who use the imperial method of measuring, you will be referring to it as an 'alphabet letter'. Sometimes it's hard to remember, so we have a conversion sheet above showing how many millimetres a letter equals.

Crochet Hook Anatomy

The hooks have three terms, in relation to the position of where they are on the hook.

• The head is the tip of the hook.
• The throat is the indentation of the hook where you grab the yarn to pull through stitches.
• Shaft is the continuous thickness of the shaft after the throat.

It's the shaft that determines the thickness of the stitchwork. If you move your stitches to the shaft as you create them, the sizing of each stitch could be inconsistent and look wonky.

Selecting the Right Hook in The Yarn Aisle

• Choose a hook first. Hooks can range from $2 to $10 USD. Look at the handle's grip and decide whether it would be good for you. I shared above what I look for in a hook.
• I recommend the following sizes for beginners: 5 mm (H/8), 5.5 mm (I/9), or 6 mm (J/10). I wouldn't hesitate to go with an 8 mm L/11 with bulky yarn as well if the thinner yarns are not your jam. I have a larger hook and thicker yarn, Bernat Softee Chunky, as a demonstration below.
• Then go choose a basic yarn to play with. You will want to look at the ball band, which I will show below, to learn how to read it and adjust it to change the hook size or find a yarn that matches the hook.
• I would stay away from a hook that doesn't have a thumb-flat rest, as it's hard to get the right orientation without staring at your hook a lot. Even after 40 years, I still need the thumb imprint to maintain my orientation so I can watch TV or listen to others as I crochet.

There is also a hook called an Afghan / Tunisian Hook. These hooks are used for Tunisian-based stitches. You can use them for regular crochet, but their length and lack of a grip handle make them inconvenient for just regular crochet stitches. Afghan hooks are harder to find in craft stores, and most people end up buying them from online stores such as Amazon.

I will show you how those hooks are used below.

Choosing Beginner-Friendly Yarn

I would look for Red Heart Super Saver, Bernat Super Value, or Caron One Pound as your starting point. There is no extra fluff in the yarn; it matches the recommended hook sizes I have left for you.

Yarn like fluffy materials such as boucle (pronounced Boo-Clay) or novelty yarns, I would stay away from. Bernat Blanket is also a good yarn to choose, and use an 8 mm / L/11 crochet hook.

Choose a light-colored yarn rather than dark navy, black, or dark gray. Lighter yarn will make the stitchwork easier for you to learn.

If you are teaching kids, let them choose the colour and use positive reinforcement to encourage them to start with a lighter shade. Kids will be mentally invested in the learning experience if they have choices from the start.

What Yarn Not To Buy?

Avoid yarns that are variegated, which means they change colour every few inches. New crocheters struggle with stitch structure when colours vary from stitch to stitch. You can visit this yarn once you are more confident in identifying a stitch.

Beginners often complain to me that they don't understand the stitchwork when I use variegated yarn for demonstrations. I get it, but it's lovely to play, too.

Choosing the wrong yarn can destroy your learning experience.

How to Hold the Hook and Yarn

Both videos below demonstrate how to hold the hook. The first tutorial will start exactly at the point where I cover how to hold it. You will see this is consistent across our YouTube Channel.

The method used on our platform is called "Butterknife Grip". You will see I am holding it like a knife instead of a "Pencil Grip". My mother taught me this method as a child, and I have maintained it for the past 40 years. If you prefer a pencil grip, I'm not the right host for you. Either method is acceptable.

It is said that people who choose the Pencil Grip method may have early-onset carpal tunnel syndrome due to the angle and wrist tension that the grip requires. I would strongly recommend learning it using my method to reduce the risk of known medical issues.

In the early years of crochet, the pencil grip looked more dainty and 'high-end,' but today's modern person prioritizes comfort and tries to reduce muscle tension as much as possible.

Reducing Back & Neck Pain Tips

You will want to support your arms with pillows or armrests as you crochet. For those with breasts to work around, you may want to especially use the pillows to shift your arms forward.

As you will see in the demonstration below, I support my arms with pillows. It takes the added tension off my hands, wrists, forearms, elbows, shoulders, and neck. It keeps my body more upright.

It is shocking to me that after 40 years of crocheting, I haven't developed carpal tunnel syndrome and have maintained my posture.

Vitamin B-12 Tips - For Numbness & Motions

I have developed numbness and a lack of fine motor detail in my fingers, most likely due to crochet. With studies such as MRI, carpal tunnel testing, and a blood panel to see if I have an autoimmune disease that is causing the numbness. Nothing was found to be wrong. It was determined that my B-12 levels were low. The specialist recommended I take a daily supplement. It is a 1000 mcg chewable pill.

The results of taking this supplement are not immediate, and I realized after a month of taking it that things I struggled with were gone. Increasing your B-12 levels will result in the formation of healthy red blood cells that carry oxygen throughout your body. It also protects nerve cells and keeps the nervous system in check. It was thought that my nerve endings needed repair.

Of course, consult your family doctor for any medical advice. I'm just relaying what worked for me.

Yarn Packaging Labels

Understanding yarn labels will tell you so much and isn't a waste of ink. Mainstream yarn makers like Yarnspirations provide the packaging in English, French and Spanish.

Independent yarn makers usually don't provide recommendations for knitting needle or crochet hook sizes, unlike large manufacturers. The most important information is the yarn thickness classification, represented by a number between 0 and 7. I will share more about that below.

Quality control assigns the thickness and the recommended knitting needle or crochet hook size to use. Below, they have the same size of knitting needle and crochet hook, but that is not standard for all yarns. They could be very different from each other. It shows 8 mm/L/11 for hook size.

If the tool is too small, the yarn could be too dense and may be harder to crochet or knit with. The bigger the yarn, the more open it will appear. You can decide what you like beforehand.

Your personal tension may be different than what is suggested on the label.

The label comes with care instructions for washing.

This particular label has been marked for quality testing under the standard OEKO-TEX to detect harmful substances. The yarn itself has been tested to cover more than 1,000 known regulated or potentially harmful substances, such as dyes, formaldehyde, heavy metals, pesticides, and other chemical residues. The limits become stricter when the yarn is expected to come into contact with human skin.

What Are The Yarn Classifications for Thickness?

Yarn is assigned a number between zero and seven. Zero being the absolute thinnest, such as thread, to seven being the thickest yarn possible to buy. The number is based solely on how many stitches can be made within a given distance.

While some yarns can look thin, once stitched to something, they can puff up or change, giving them a stitch-per-distance that differs from what the label suggests. Independent makers of yarn rarely assign a number to their products.

Let's Go Through The Classifications:

0 - Lace

• Lace is considered a fingering crochet thread type of yarn. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 1-3 ply. Hooks generally used for this weight range in steel classifications 6-8 or up to B.

1 - Super Fine

• Generally, sock yarns, fingering weights and some baby yarns are really thin for this classification. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 4-ply. Hook sizes for this range are generally B-E.

2 - Fine

• You will find some baby yarns and sport weights in this classification. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 5-ply. Hook sizes for this are generally E-G.

3 - Light

• Baby yarns, Double Knit and light worsted yarns are in this classification. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 8-ply. Hook sizes for this are generally G- I.

4 - Medium

• Most yarns in general use are in this weight class. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 10-ply. Hook sizes for this are generally I-K. Most crocheters use this yarn weight in examples of Red Heart Super Saver.

5 - Bulky

• Chunky or craft yarns are in this weight class. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand, and Australia, this yarn is considered 12 plies. Hook sizes range from K to M.

6 - Super Bulky

• This is even thicker than regular bulky and goes into roving yarns. Hook sizes range from M to Q. Most crocheters use this yarn weight in patterns like Bernat Blanket.

7 - Jumbo

• Extremely thick yarn. This is currently the thickest level available. This is for mega-thick yarns using really big hooks. Hook sizes range from Q to Z.

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Step 2: Learn the Absolute Basics

Let's begin by showing you the basics of motions and steps before we start crocheting a real project. Absolute must-know techniques.

Step 1: How to Make A Slip Knot

Every project starts with a Slip Knot. It's the foundation knot that allows you to start making loops, and the first loop doesn't unravel.

Step 2: How to Make A Crochet Chain - 2 Ways

As discussed above, since the origin of crochet is from rug hooking, the first crochet chain is the equivalent of making the canvas that is used in rug hooking. Without the chain, you cannot build up, as you need a foundation to begin.

The first video is how I always do a chain, but you may see designs asking you to do a foundation single crochet. It's not the same thing.

Below is the foundation single crochet. I find these harder to count as I go. The advantage is that the first row you create will look more consistent, which can make a difference in some projects.

Step 3: How to Count Chains

When you place your slip knot onto the hook, that is NOT CONSIDERED the first chain. If the project says to start by chaining 20 to begin. Once the slip knot is in place, the first chain you make is considered 1.

The slip knot tightens onto itself and disappears into the project and is not available to use when going back across the chain.

Step 4: How to Hold the Tension of the Yarn

The tension of the yarn is controlled by 5 factors. Your yarn-feeding hand to your hook is where much of the muscle tension is created and also controls the consistency of your yarn flow.

• The distance from you to the yarn ball. I prefer a minimum of 2 feet and go as far as 3 feet.
• The height of the yarn ball. I prefer the yarn ball to be at the same height as my hands, so the yarnn'tnot angled up or down from the ball to my hands.
• Pull the centre out of the ball. It creates yarn barf, but the crochet goes relatively quickly, so you will use it up fairly fast and won't have to worry about it.
• The opening and closing of the gap between your ring and pinky fingers. Closing the gap will make the yarn harder to slide through; opening it up will cause the yarn to free flow. You will naturally adjust this tension pretty quickly.
• The pointer finger going up and down is a form of tension crochet, not an unncessary positioning of you yarn feeding hand.

Step 5: Where To Insert Your Hook on the Starting Chain

My mother taught me to use 2 loops when going across the beginning chain. It creates a really ugly gap, especially if applying a border. A friend of mine showed me the back hump (some call back loop) of the chain to use itself.

I quickly switched to the back loop as I can see the obvious chains to use. It creates a Loch Ness Monster look of humps, a serpent's jagged back.

In thicker yarns like Bernat Blanket, you may want to use 2 loops,, as using just one back hump can cause excessive spacing. You can decide what you prefer.

The designer won't tell you which method to use; it's a personal preference.

Turning Your Work

At the end of each row, you will turn the work. Be consistent in the way you turn it. If you were looking straight down as if you were standing over your body, this is the direction I suggest you look.

• Right-handed - Clockwise
• Left-handed - Counterclockwise

The purpose of this turning method is to ensure that the strand leading to the ball is on the back of the project when you turn. If you turn the opposite way from what I am suggesting, the yarn leading to the yarn ball will be on the front of the work for the first stitch.

In every video, you will always see me turn it the same way. There is never a time when I have had to change it in forty years of experience.

Step 3: Learn the Core Stitches

I've shown you the basics of the slip knot above to start your work, as well as the chain. We can build upon the chain work using the basic stitches used in nearly every project.

Step 1: Single Crochet

Single crochet is commonly used in most crochet projects, including Amigurumi (aka Stuffed Toys). Slip stitching is the tightest stitch, and this one is the next one up.

Step 2: Half Double Crochet

Half double crochet is the next size, height-wise. It falls between the single and double crochet stitches in terms of height. This stitch is tighter than double crochet, and many designers making clothes, including baby clothes, will use it to close in the fabric look.

Step 3: Double Crochet

Double Crochet is used a lot, including iconic items like the typical granny square. The spacing between the stitches is greater, making a project more see-through. For some items, it saves the idea of making buttonholes, as buttons can slide in between the stitches.

Step 4: Treble Crochet

Treble crochet is taller than double crochet, and generally speaking, many crocheters hate doing this stitch. The extra wrap on the hook may bother some people, but it allows your project to grow taller even faster than a double crochet.

I prefer to use a treble in stitches like the Faux Popcorn, as demonstrated below. It can create texture with the larger gaps. I love the texture of combining single crochet and trebles together to scrunch the fabric up. Take a look and see if you like it.

Step 5: Slip Stitch

This is not the same as a slip knot. If the designer needs you to move stitches without cutting the yarn when working in rows. Examples of this would be moving over stitches to create arm socks for sleeves.

It is also used to join yarn when working in the round. See both videos below. The steps are the same; the reasoning is different.

Step 6: Even Taller Stitches

There are even taller stitches than treble, and I will show you what they are below. I would skip these lessons,s but I think you should know they exist. They are in order, starting with the next size up from the last treble.

Step 4: Learn How Crochet Actually Works

Step 1: How To Count The Crochet Stitches

The tops of each stitch consist of two loops. When referring to the stitch, both of the loops together are considered one stitch. In the picture below, you can see a total of 7 stitches. The loop on the hook IS NOT considered a stitch.

You often see me counting stitches in tutorials, especially when it matters.

Step 2: When The 2 Loops Are Used on Their Own

The purpose of choosing one loop is to create texture. In hats, though, the loop can create elasticity with the stitch itself. Any of the stitches you learned above can be done using the front or back loops if you choose. Below is a demonstration with single crochet as an example.

Step 3: What is A Turning Chain

The turning chain's purpose is to build up the height of the row, as the hook, when returned to one loop, will be at the highest point of the row or round. I often refer to these as builders.

Some designers prefer to put the building chain at the end of an instruction, while designers like me and also yarn standards from Yarnspirations, prefer it at the beginning of an instruction.

Step 4: Why Edges Shrink or Grow

The first row of a project will shrink by approximately 20% compared to the chain you made. This means that if you crocheted 100 chains, by the time you get across the first row, it will be equivalent to 80 chains in length.

The first row scales up the stitch perfectly. New crocheters may experience more shrinkage in rows 2 and 3 with tension control issues.

How to recognize the first and last stitch

Step 5: How to Fix Simple Mistakes

The easiest method is to rip out the work back to the point where the error occurs. Remarkably, bitching about the mistake on social media won't solve your problems.

BUT, most people's mistakes, when they realize them too late, happen to be in granny blankets or corner-to-corner blankets. It's obvious when a stitch is missing. There is a way to fix that without tearing your work apart. It is called a standing stitch. I will show you below what happens if you miss the stitch and how to fill it in.

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Step 5: Read Your First Pattern

Step 1: Crochet Language Differences

We are a crochet channel based in Canada and use US terms and North American Terminology. Terminology varies globally; in the UK, Treble Crochet is called Double Crochet.

Designers should generally tell you which terminology to use. In the past, Canadians, like me, learned crochet using UK Terminology, as we are a Commonwealth country. In time, we have adapted to US Terms for consistency and more access to patterns. In fact, when I started The Crochet Crowd in 2008, I was teaching UK Terms without realizing that Canada had already adopted US Terms. I had to relearn and adjust.

Step 2: Master List of Crochet Abbreviations

We have an up-to-date master list of crochet abbreviations, with most entries including a tutorial demonstrating how to use the stitch.

Step 3: Standards of Crochet Abbreviations

Crochet designers have to exercise due diligence to avoid creating an abbreviation if one already exists. Example: Double Crochet = Dc. A new designer may not realize there is one that exists and use something like Dr. It confuses the hell out of people.

You, as a consumer, may realize that the designer may not be ready to be classified as a designer if basic terminology is not part of their standard.

The standards are controlled by the Craft Yarn Council in the United States. Most crochet publications, including major yarn manufacturers, are on the council to ensure standards are aligned across them. As much as they are competitors, having consumers with consistent language across pattern books, ball bands, and the website is key for coaches to gain as much standard knowledge as possible.

Step 4: How to Read Patterns Workshop

Over the years, so many questions came in about patterns. The publishers and yarn makers who create patterns, including the designers who follow the same standards, are consistent with one another.

The Workshop Course Free Program

• Know How You Learn
• Abbreviation Keys
• Abbreviation Substitution
• Abbreviation Punctuation
• Abbreviation Contractions
• Defined Abbreviations
• Colour Coding In Patterns
• Multiple Pattern Sizes in Patterns
• Repeat and How to Understand Them
• Tips for Reading A Pattern and Hook Sizing
• Gauge and What It Means
• Instructions Versus References
• Fastening or Breaking Off?
• Behind the Scenes

Step 5: Why is Pattern Gauge Important?

The pattern gauge determines whether your part is successful or not. Everyone, including the designers, is hand-stitching. Our lifestyle and/or personal tensions play a role in matching gauge. While most of us are pretty lazy about creating a gauge to see if the hook size will match the designer, we can end up with items that don't fit. Save the time it takes to swatch a gauge before putting in the hours of work to realize it won't fit you.

We have a workshop on crochet gauge. You will learn the following:

• What is A Gauge Swatch
• Where to Find the Gauge
• Your Personal Gauge May Not Match Designer
• How to Measure Gauge
• How to Change Your Gauge
• Reduce Your Gauge Size
• Increasing Your Gauge Size

You can see in the demonstration below why gauge matters: the yarn will work once your personal gauge matches the product.

Step 6: Understand Crochet Diagrams

Crochet diagrams are a technical skill above the average designer. However, they have a place in the world as crochet diagrams can eliminate the need for long paragraphs of instructions and/or visual perspective to understand what the instructions mean.

Reading isn't a strong skill for me, and reading crochet diagrams is far easier, as I find paragraphs of instructions really intimidating. We have a 32 Minute Workshop on how to follow and understand instructions.

I officially started learning to draw professional diagrams in 2020, and I have honed my skills to create magazine-quality and higher-end presentations of them using my knowledge and understanding.

In the workshop, you will learn the following:

• Convenience of a Diagram
• Future of Diagrams
• Finding Errors with Diagrams
• Standard Symbols Used
• Easy Ways to Remember Symbols
• Getting In Line With Stitches
• Stepping Stones Over Stitches
• Identical Tops and Bottoms
• Hooks and Arches
• Chain Spaces
• Reading Diagrams in Rows
• Reading Diagrams in Rounds
• Repeat Multiples
• Mirror Assumptions

Every diagram should match the written words. They should be identical to each other. When pattern testing occurs with our Journey Members on YouTube, they can see my diagrams and text and easily find my errors in the writing, with confirmation. My diagrams are usually 100% accurate the first time, as I design with the crochet diagram first before putting the instructions into words.

You can see me firsthand making a crochet diagram from scratch and how long it can take. It's why some of our most intensive patterns have a small fee to cover the days and hours it can take to generate a diagram.

One of the most intensive diagrams ever was the Crochet Study of Possibilities Blanket. Don't believe me, see for yourself by tapping the photo below.

Make Your First REAL Project - 4 Projects

Your goal is simple: get used to the crochet hook. Find a comfortable way to sit while holding the hook and yarn. Always remember, the skill of crochet is not a race. Don't be fooled by influencers bragging about how fast they are; being the fastest isn't a real prize.

Project 1 - Beginner's Dishcloth

The Crochet Beginner's Dishcloth uses the following stitches that you used above. Use 100% cotton yarn, such as Lily Sugar'n Cream, as acrylic or animal-fibre yarns will ruin instantly. The combination shown is also known as Faux Popcorn. If you would like to examine the pattern, click here.

Project 2: Simple Granny Square

Learn the basics of the structure of doing crochet granny squares. From here, you can learn how to rotate around a centre circle. Again, use 100% cotton for your dishcloth needs. You can make the squares as big as you want, even into huge blankets.

Project 3: A Basic Colourful Scarf

Learn how to make a basic scarf. You will also learn how to apply fringe in the tutorial below. Never underestimate the simplicity crochet can offer. More information about this scarf.

Project 4: A Basic Crochet Hat

The family ridge hat comes in 3 sizes, from children to adults. You can choose the size you want to make. Remember, for wearables like this, you are going to want to do a gauge check, as discussed above. You can examine this pattern here.

Okay, I Can Crochet. What’s Next?

This website is a key cornerstone of information and skills you can pick up. We don't just tell you; we can show you the skills.

Learn how you can use The Crochet Crowd YouTube Channel to get everything you need. I focus on skills and am best known for my stitch-alongs and my Study of Blanket Collection Series.

Use our pattern menu to narrow down your searches for what you are looking for. Also, the search engine on this website is extremely accurate at getting you where you want to go quickly. If there is a tutorial, it's suggested in the pattern's name to save you from having to click to check.

One final note: I'm not a spokesperson for Yarnspirations, but I am authorized to film some of their patterns. If you are looking for additional help on their patterns, please reach out to their customer service through their website for the best results.

Try Another Concept - C2C Master Crochet Workshop

Now that you know how to crochet, try a stitch pattern that is highly addictive and that many crocheters use. It's the C2C Master Crochet Workshop.