Mikey's Free Crochet Granny Cardigan Pattern for XL to 3 XL + Tutorial

Mikey's Crochet Granny Cardigan Pattern is one size that fits from XL to 3 XL. It's meant to be an open cardigan. It's made of Lily Sugar'n Cream that is 100% cotton so the jacket isn't too hot to wear and definitely breaks the chill in the air.

The jacket consists of 54 squares total, with no need to do any partial squares for this design.

Yarn and Technical Details

Smaller Size

If you want a smaller size with this square sizing, we have another layout option that uses only 42 squares. You can click the picture and/or look at the pattern to see the layout difference. The model is wearing the XS to L size. My size for my pattern is XL to 3XL.

Lily Sugar’n Cream, 113g / 4 oz, 184 meters / 200 yards (2080 yds total needed)

• Contrast A = Warm Brown 203 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast B = Rainforest (substituted) 198 yards - 1 Ball
• Contrast C = Hot Green 204 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast D = Rose Pink 214 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast E = Blue Jeans 198 yards - 1 Ball
• Contrast F = Blueberry (substituted) 175 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast G = Teal (substituted) 185 yards - 1 Ball
• Contrast H = Red 219 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast I = Beach Glass 333 yards - 2 Balls
• Contrast J = Black 151 yards - 1 Ball

Hooks 5 mm / H/8  and 5.5 mm / I/9 crochet hooks or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge 13 sc and 15 rows = 4” [10 cm] with 5 mm / H/8 hook. 

Measurement Fits XL, 2 XL and 3 XL 

There are two weights used at the front bottom edging.

Abbreviations 

• Beg = Begin(ning)
• Ch(s) = Chain(s)
• Dc = Double Crochet
• Hdc = Half Double Crochet
• Hdcbp = Half Double Crochet Back Post
• Hdcfp = Half Double Crochet Front Post
• Rep = Repeat
• RS =  Right side
• Sc = Single crochet
• Sk = Skip
• Sl st = Slip stitch
• Sp(s) = Space(s)
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• Standing dc = Standing Double Crochet
• WS = Wrong side

Tutorial

Granny Square - Make 54

Each square is entirely random, with no two being alike, as eight colours are used. All squares are only five rounds, meaning not all squares use the same colour order, and some colours are not used. The squares were crocheted randomly, using only one colour in each square.

Note:

For the 2nd to 5th rounds, use standing double crochet to begin the round for a more consistent look to granny squares.

With colour 1, ch 4 and insert hook into beg ch to form ring.

1st rnd: RS. Ch 2. 2 dc in ring. Ch 3. (3 dc in ring, ch 3.) three times. Join. Break colour 1.

2nd rnd: With colour 2. Standing dc in beg corner sp, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. *(3 dc. Ch 3. 3 dc) in next corner, ch 1. Rep from * around. 3 dc in beg corner sp, ch 3. Join. Break colour 2.

3rd rnd: With colour 3. Standing dc in any ch-1 sp before a corner, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. 1 sc in next corner ch-3 sp, ch 1. *(3 dc. Ch 3. 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. 1 sc in next corner ch-3 sp, ch 1. Rep from * around. 3 dc in beg ch-1 sp. Ch 3. Join. Break colour 3.

4th rnd: With colour 4. Standing dc in beg corner sp, 1 dc in same sp. 1 dc in each dc and ch-1 sps across. *(2 dc. Ch 3. 2 dc) in next corner, 1 dc in each dc and ch-1 sps across. Rep from * around. 2 dc in beg corner sp, ch 3. Join. Break colour 4.

5th rnd: With colour 5. Standing dc in beg corner sp, 1 dc in same sp. 1 dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. *(2 dc. Ch 2. 2 dc) in next corner, 1 dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Rep from * around. 2 dc in beg corner sp, ch 2. Join. Break colour 5. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Follow the original pattern for the assembly layout and finishing of the jacket. Each of Mikey's new squares is 6" x 6". 

Crochet Granny Square Diagram

You can print and/or save the crochet diagram for future use.

Assembly

TIP: Slip stitch joining has tighter tension, so using a larger hook size is recommended so the squares don’t look scrunched. 

Using the layout given, with 5.5 mm / I/9, slip stitch the squares together using J. Notice that the square under the arm is folded, with two sides attaching once you go along the side seam.

Lay out your pieces in the configuration shown above. If you did random like Mikey, just look at the squares and randomly place them on a flat surface. Move around any squares if you see something that bothers you.

I went through the back loop only, so it was flatter in appearance.

Once all squares are sewn, fold over the cardigan so the opening is your front edging.

Side Seams

With 5.5 mm / I/9 and using J, Slip stitch joins the side edges together. Note that you need to follow half of the folded square with this join to make it seamless. Use the other two sides that were not used for the seam join. Start the arm hole and work down to the bottom edge.

Front and Bottom Edging

To maintain consistency in the look, we need to follow the bottom edge up across the front edge, neck, back down the front edge, and down to the bottom edge. 

With RS facing and with 5 mm / H/8 hook, start at the bottom edge and sc evenly around. Place 1 dc in the connection spot between corners to fill in the indented space. For 90-degree turn corners, apply (1 sc. Ch 2. 1 sc) in the corners. Join with a sl st and fasten off. 

TIP: The black following around will give a consistent look to the black that joins the squares. 

Bottom Edge

TIP: To be consistent, the first row starts on the wrong side. 

1st row: WS. With I, attach with sl st to first ch-2 sp on the bottom corner. Ch 1. 1 sc in same corner sp. 1 sc in each across to final ch-2 sp corner. Turn. 

2nd to 5th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. Fasten off. 

The bottom edge is not fully completed and will be done after the front edging. 

Front Edge

1st row: With RS facing and with a 5 mm / H/8 hook, with I, attach with sl st to the bottom corner of the front edge. Evenly space the hdc up the edge, across the back, and down the other side. Turn. 

2nd row: Ch 2 [does not count as half double crochet (hdc)]. 1 hdc in first st. Working into horizontal bar below next st and each stitch across, work 1 hdc in each hdc to end of row. Turn. 

Repeat last row until it measures 6".

Fold the front edging completely in half with the edging on the jacket's inside. 

Using 5.5 mm / I/9 and C, use a slip stitch join through the front of the jacket and catch the edge of the join on the back side to make the fold permanent. Start at the bottom and go up and over the neck and back down the other side. 

Mikey’s jacket is weighted at the front bottom folded area. He used ½” stainless steel nut and slid it inside the fold before completing the final edge. It’s floating itself but invisible. Apply one nut on each front corner folded area. 

TIP: If the stitch count in the next row is odd, fake it at the end of the row to make it look consistent. 

Picot = Ch 3. Sl st in top of last st. 

1st row: WS. With I, attach to the first bottom edge, putting both edges from the fold together as one. Evenly space across the fold, then jump to the sc across. Put both edges together at the other bottom fold and evenly space the sc to the final corner. Turn. 

TIP: If you have an odd stitch count in the next row, just fake it at the end of the row to make it look consistent. 

Picot = Ch 3. Sl st in top of last st. 

2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. Picot. 1 sc in next st. *1 sc in next st, picot, 1 sc in next st. Rep from * across. Fasten off. 

Cuffs (both)

1st rnd: RS. With J and 5 mm / H/8 hook, attach to the bottom seam of an armhole. Ch 1. Evenly space 28 sc around. Join with sl st to beg sc. Break J. 

2nd rnd: Ch 1. 1 hdcfp around first st. 1 hdcbp around next st. *1 hdcfp around next st, 1 hdcbp around next st. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdcfp. 

3rd to 6th rnds: Ch 1. 1 hdcfp around first hdcfp. 1 hdcbp around next hdcbp. *1 hdcfp around next hdcfp, 1 hdcbp around next hdcbp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdcfp. Fasten off at the end of the 6th rnd.