No Slip Stitch Socks for Babies
Introducing Baby Socks for 6 months – 1 year old. Socks have always intimidated me due to slip stitching joining. I really dislike seeing my join lines. With using yarn like Red Heart’s Heart & Sole Yarn, I really want the colours to revolve without a slip stitch ruining the look.
This pattern took me 5 hours to develop and 8 tries to get it right. Using research from the Yarn Council of America in telling me the baby foot size dimensions, I used the dimensions to aim for when designing these socks.
With this pattern having no slip stitching between the rounds, I think crocheters are going to be highly successful. The trick to my pattern is to ensure you have two stitch markers that are different colours. As long as you can move the stitch markers when you move the rows, you will be successful each time.
Video Tutorial to match this pattern is included.
- RED HEART® Heart & Sole Yarn®: 1 skein Berry Bliss (1 skein can do two with plenty left over)
- Crochet Hook: 3.75 mm [Size F or US 7)
- Stitch markers & yarn needle.
- GAUGE: 12 sc = 2″, 13 rounds = 2″ in single crochet. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
- sc2tog: [draw up a loop in next st] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
- fsc = foundation single crochet.
- ch = chain; dc = double crochet; mm = millimeters; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated. bpdc = back post double crochet; fpdc = front post double crochet.
Tips Before Beginning
- The heel area is completed as the last item in this pattern. We need the bottom and the leg area to be completed. This pattern creates a hole in the heel area for us to fill in at the end. The heel is much easier than you may realize.
- The entire project is working in continuous revolutions, meaning, there are no slip stitching between the rows. We only slip stitch at the very end.
- Be sure to move the stitch markers as your work progresses.
- A video tutorial has been created to show you the steps if you are lost.
- You may see a difference of socks between your 1st sock and the 2nd sock. You will find that during your second time that you are more comfortable with the pattern. Your tension may be slightly different even though your stitches will be right on.
- To ensure that your socks are the same stitches, ensure you do random checking of stitch counts while working on this sock to ensure you are accurate. 1 stitch difference can make a visual difference.
- Sock is 4″ Long from the front of the toe to the back of the heel.
- Sock is 5.5″ long from the front toe to the top of the cuff.
- Sock is 4.5″ in circumference.
Instructions – Toe
- Ch 3. 3 sc in second chain from the hook. 3 sc in the beginning ch. In each group of 3, mark the middle stitch with a stitch marker. 1 sc in the 1st stitch of the beginning 3 to bring you to the stitch before the stitch marker. – 6 sts. Ensure you have two different colours to know which stitch marker is the beginning of the round and the half way around. Strongly recommend you write down the colour meanings as you may forget. The 1st group of 3 is your starting round to help you identify. These stitch markers will be representing the sides of your socks as you progress. The stitch markers will be representing the starting of each continuous revolution.
- 3 sc the stitch marker, move the stitch marker to the middle stitch of the new row. SC around until the next stitch marker, 3 sc into the stitch marker, move the stitch marker. Sc remaining until the stitch before the beginning stitch marker. – 10 sts. Going forward, everytime you pass the stitch marker, move the stitch marker up to the new row. If there is 3 sc, the stitch marker is always the middle stitch. In regular rows, the stitch marker is just moved up as usual.
- Repeat Step 2 – 14 sts
- Repeat Step 2 – 18 sts
- Repeat Step 2 – 22 sts
- Repeat Step 2 – 26 sts, Toe shaping is complete. Do not fasten off.
Instructions – Between Toe & Heel
To save yourself a lot of time. Mark the beginning stitch with a 3 (and different colour) stitch marker. Instead of moving the stitch markers up as you will spend more time moving the markers than actually crocheting. Just use the 3rd stitch marker as your starting point to easily count the 13 rows of revolutions.
- Sc into each stitch around. 13 times. Do not fasten off.
- When you have completed 13 rounds. Fold the sock in half with toe stitch markers on the sides. Move the stitch markers up to the last round completed. Your stitch markers will be 13 stitches apart from each other.
Skip The Heel
- We are going to create a gapping hole that is half of the revolution of the sock. We do the heel as the last item in this pattern. When you try on the sock with everything completed, the heel will be missing until the very end.
Instructions – Leg
- Sc across to the half way stitch marker. 13 fsc chain. Sc in the beginning stitch marker to complete the round. Heel hole has been formed.
- Sc in every stitch around. 4 times.
- Hdc in every stitch around.
- * Fpdc in first stitch, bpdc in next. Repeat * around. 3 times.
- Sc in every stitch around. 2 times. Sl st in the final 2 stitches of the last revolution. Fasten off and weave in end.
Instructions – Heel
- Beginning at the 1st stitch marker, sc across to the stitch before the half way stitch marker. 2 sctog the stitch before and the stitch marker stitch. Sc remaining stitches until the stitch before the beginning stitch marker. 2 sctog the stitch before the stitch marker and the stitch marker. You will be doing the 2 sctog in the same manner for the remaining heel. Be sure to move up your stitch markers as it will be harder to identify the stitches if you don’t.
- Repeat Step 1.
- Repeat Step 1.
- Repeat Step 1.
- Repeat Step 1.
- Sctog all the way around. Fasten off.
- Turn the sock inside out. Sew the remaining gap closed. It’s critical to ensure your sock is sewn together on the inside to produced a superior finished look. This hides the join.