Gift 9 – 12 Gifts of Christmas Series
Whether your trying to keep the snow and cold out or add a little something to your winter fashion, these boot cuffs are the latest trend for winter. The idea for this pattern hit me when I saw the how popular the Corner to Corner afghan and scarf were. I thought, why not have boot cuffs to match? I hope you enjoy this free boot cuff pattern. Make them for you, your family and your friends as part of our 12 Gifts of Christmas.
Wearing homemade socks has it’s advantages of picking the right colours or being very creative with socks. From first hand experience, sock yarns like the Red Heart Heart & Sole, provide really interesting colour ways to make creating homemade socks a fun process. You cannot beat homemade!
You will notice that most sock yarns aren’t one solid colour! What would be the point if you cannot play and make your socks really turn out neat.
In this project, we are making Boot Cuffs together. You can substitute your yarn and hook size to accomodate your own yarn stash. We have written the pattern to be versatile with giving you tips on how to create your own custom pair.
- 4.0 mm or Size G Crochet Hook
- 2 Skeins of Red Heart Heart & Sole, 50 g or 1.76 oz. Colour used is called Razzle Dazzle
- Darning Needle
You may substitute your yarn and hook size by following along with our instructions and adjusting it where the measurements need to be. Each of our legs are a different diameter, so essentially, you will need to customize your pattern to suit you or a loved one.
Customizing Your Cuffs
- The main band that is using the Corner to Corner stitching has a width of 3.5″. The length of the band is dependent on the circumference of your leg at the top of the boot. In the photo above, the band is slightly stretched to accomodate 16″ long.
- You can decide to make your main band wider by adding more Corner to Corner stitches.
- If using a different size hook and wanting to keep within the same sizing, complete your corner to corner bands so that they measure the 3.5″ wide. Though in our example there are 7 boxes of Corner to Corner stitches in the width, using a thicker yarn and larger hook will reduce the amount of boxes required to form the width.
- Your leg will be a different circumference if you measure while sitting down. Stand up and bend over to take your measurement or have a friend assist you.
- When doing the cuffs, you want the band to stretch a bit. Making it too loose will not look fashionable.
Create The Main Band – Corner to Corner Stitching
- Ch 6.
- Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch; turn – 1 block made.
- Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, (slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in ch-3 space of previous row; turn – 2 blocks made.
- Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, [(slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row] twice; turn – 3 blocks made.
- Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, [(slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row] 3 times; turn – 4 blocks made.
- Continue in this manner until 7 Blocks across are made. If using a different yarn than our suggestion, you will make a decision to reduce the amount of blocks or add more blocks.
- To make the band, 1 side will be continually reducing to create a flat edge while the other side will continue to grow by 1. This is because of the diagonal stitching that we are doing. To reduce on the one side to form a rectangular band, slip st across first 3 dc, * (slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row; repeat from * to last ch-3 space; turn, in this direction, you will be making a block in the last space.
- Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, [(slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row]. Slip st in last space; turn, do NOT make a block in last space. See video for clarification if confused.
- Make your band the length it needs to wrap around your leg. Once the one tip of the edge is confirmed to be the right size. You will begin reducing your corner to corner on both ends to form the final corner.
- Slip st across first 3 dc, * (slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row; repeat from * to last ch-3 space; slip st in last space; turn, do NOT make a block in last space.
- Repeat Step 10 until you have finished the final corner.
- Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew the two ends together to form a band. You leg should slip into this band comfortably.
Decide what side will be bottom. At this point, you can decide one or the other. They both should look identical.
- Fasten on at the seam line. Ch 1 and Single Crochet around the edge. Evenly space your stitches as demonstrated in the video. Join with a Slip Stitch with the first single crochet. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Top Edge Ribbing
- Fasten on and Ch 2. Begin to half double crochet around the edge. Evenly space your half double crochets around the edge as you would have done in the bottom edge. Do not join with a Slip stitch as we are going to crochet in a continous circle.
- Starting at the first stitch, *Front Post Double Crochet(FPDC) and then in the next Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC). Repeat * all the way around.
- Start this round with matching the existing stitch work. If the stitch below is FPDC, make the stitch above it the exacty same. Do the same for the BPDC to keep the ribbing looking consistent.
- Repeat Round 3.
- HDC all the way around. Final three stitches will be 1 SC, 1 SC and then Slip Stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Crochet Along With Mikey
©2013 The Crochet Crowd, Cathy Cunningham, Executive Assistant of The Crochet Crowd