Crochet Asymmetrical Wrap Pattern

Over the years, I've been collecting yarn at my local yarn shops and yarn vendor markets. I experimented using three hanks to make a Crochet Sawtooth Asymmetrical Wrap pattern.

Unfortunately, due to the time I have had the yarn, I lost some of the labels to determine the colour. I use one entire hank before changing to the next, and so on. The wrap has three distinctive colours that are blocked out. You will need at least 1,110 yards of this type of fingering-weight yarn to play with.

The printable version of the pattern will include the crochet diagram to follow.

One edge will stay flat and expand while the other stays in a sawtooth format and will reduce stitches on one side to give the sawtooth look.

The wrap will start at the narrowest part and slowly expand in width. Over the length of 93", the widest area of the wrap is only 23". You could keep going, but anything longer may be cumbersome to wear.

Yarn

Yarn Indulgences Sock Marl, 100 g / 3.53 oz. 366 m / 400 yards. The colour is unknown, as it’s been in my collection for years and dyed in New Brunswick, Canada. 

A = Colour unknown. 1 - Hank

Hand Maiden Fine Yarn, Casbah,  115 g / 4 oz, 325 m / 355 yds. 

B = Butterscotch - 1 Hank

C = Colour unknown. - 1 Hank

Hooks 3.5 mm / E/4 crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge = 11 sc and 12 rows = 2” [5 cm]

Measurement 93” long x 23” at the widest part.

Abbreviations 

• Bean St = Bean stitch. Insert hook in next st, YO and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), YO in same stitch and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), YO in same stitch once more and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), YO and pull through 5 loops only. YO and pull through last two loops. 
• Beg = Begin(ning)
• Ch(s) = Chain(s)
• Dc = Double crochet
• Rep = Repeat
• RS =  Right side
• Sc = Single crochet
• Sk = Skip
• Sp(s) = Space(s)
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• WS = Wrong side
• YO = Yarn over

Instructions

With A, ch 2. 

1st row: 5 dc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. 5 dc. 

2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next dc. 1 sc in next dc. 2 sc in next dc. 1 sc in last dc. Turn. 7 sc. 

3rd row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. (Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st) twice. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 7 sts. 

TIP: Stitches in the next row include the use of ch-1 sps. 

4th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 9 sc. 

5th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 9 sts.

6th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 11 sc. 

7th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 11 sts.

8th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 13 sc. 

9th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 13 sc. 

TIP: Rep for remaining of scarf begins here. 

10th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first sc. 2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc. 2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each sc across to the 7th sc before end of row (leaving last 6 sc empty). Turn. 9 sc. 

11th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 9 sts.

12th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 11 sc. 

13th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 11 sts.

14th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 13 sc. 

15th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 13 sts.

16th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 15 sc. 

17th row: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout). 1 dc in first sc. Ch 1, sk next sc. *Bean st in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across. 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 15 sts.

18th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first dc. 2 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next bean st. 2 sc in next ch-1 sps. 1 sc in each st and ch-1 sps across. Turn. 17 sc. 

19th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 17 sc. 

Rep from the 10th to 19th rows until the scarf reaches the desired size. I changed the yarn as one ran out without worrying about starting a fresh colour on an edge. 

Fasten off. 

With each repeat, the scarf will get wider.

TIP: When starting a new repeat, the number of bean stitches is one less than the last bean stitch row. 

Dampen the wrap for blocking after completion for the best presentation. 

The print version includes a crochet diagram not shown in this article.

If you like this type of yarn, you may enjoy a scarf I made with similar yarn a few years ago. I made the Crochet Prince Edward Island Scarf for a craft show. Love the leight-wight and flow.