Crochet Stitch is Right Game in Rows

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The Stitch is Right Blanket Game 2.0 is the latest version of our first Stitch is Right Game back a few years ago.

Some of the most popular stitch combinations have come to be viral in nature through our Stitch is Right Game. The game was a team effort to make here but it was Jeanne and I that did the original stitches. Jeanne realized that 3 of the stitches used in the game were beautiful together. However, it wasn’t until it randomly appeared during the spins that it was noticed.

The original Crochet Hugs and Kisses Baby Blanket has been downloaded over 200,000 times. If it wasn’t for the game, this combination may never have been noticed.

Spin This Wheel to Play

1. First Spin is Your Colour Assignment.
2. The second Spin is Your Stitch Assignment.

Stitch is Right Blanket Game 2.0

Designed by Mikey with graphics support from Diva Dan. The pictures shown are from the prototype testing. Tested by Nancy.

I used Caron One Pound in my example: 

• 1 – Lilac
• 2 – Sky Blue
• 3 – Cream
• 4 – Denim
• 5 – Soft Sage
• 6 – Ocean

Hook – 5.5 mm / I/9

Gauge – 12 sc and 15 rows = 4” [10 cm]

1956 Choices

By using 6 colours and 6 stitches, there are possibilities of 1956 different choices that could be made. The chances of a blanket matching another crocheter are 1 in 1956. It’s impossible to tell you how much yarn is needed.

The main purpose of the game is to try new stitches but also take a game of risk of how the stitches will combo up together. It is possible for you to keep spinning the same stitch combination and colours in a row. 

Personally speaking, random is hard to see the vision of what it could potentially look like. Maybe I really don’t want to go to the same section twice in a row or even a colour.  Ultimately, you have to decide what works for you. 

I, intentionally, chose stitches that work with each other. The main objective is to get the starting chain correct. There’s no crazy thinking required but I would caution you

Major Tip

Record the stitch count once the 1st row is completed and write that down so you have it for reference. 

I would suggest counting stitches on the first row when a new section is created. This will ensure you didn’t miss any stitches as it’s not obvious on some of the stitches like the loop tracks. 

You’re the Artist

If the wheel isn’t being nice to you, there’s no crochet police, spin it again. In each section, I have left you information if you would like to make the section taller by sharing the repeat pattern for each combination.  

Right Side VS Wrong Side

In my experience, I have found some stitch samplers where the stitches are crocheted on the wrong side of the blanket. The stitch feature can be on the underside of the blanket and not on the top surface. While some designers tell you to force the stitch to make it pop out the good side of the blanket, it’s not a great solution.

I have designed each section to land the stitch feature to be on the top side of the blanket aka RIGHT SIDE (RS). For some sections, you need to start on the WRONG SIDE (WS) when you begin a section. 

Strong suggestion to mark the RS once the first row is completed. It will become obvious after 1 or 2 sections which are the RS of the project.

I have marked each section on which side of the project to start.

Strong Tip

If you happen to spin the same section in a row, I would recommend fastening off yarn from the section before and begin again fresh. If the yarn is the same colour, keep in mind the next section may be starting on the opposite side to where you finished. 

Stitches Used In this Game

• Stitch 1 – Houndstooth Stitch (tooth)
• Stitch 2 – Clusters (cabbage)
• Stitch 3 – Faux Popcorn (kernel)
• Stitch 4 – Treble Ribs (similar to Alpine Stitch, mountains)
• Stitch 5 – Popcorn (popped corn)
• Stitch 6 – Loop Tracks (train tracks)

Design Considerations

I have seen patterns where there is a ridge between sections of stitch combinations. Each new section will have you do either a front loop or back loop single crochet to get the ridge to appear. It depends on if you start on the RS or WS on the one that is assigned. 

I assumed crocheters will want to expand a section to be more rows, I have provided that information. Some of these sections may look awesome with a thicker band of stitches. I have left that to you. 

Each section is about 2.5 – 3.5” each. 

This is designed to be fun to see what community members have for combinations. 

Blanket Sizes

Using the recommended hook, 5.5 mm / I/9, the following are the chain counts if you want to aim for a certain size. However, if you want to customize to something not listed below, chain so the count is an even number such as 100, 102, 130 and etc. 

Most crocheters don’t factor in the hangover of a bedspread that is called the ‘drape’. I have given you the information in chain counts so you can do drape and know what the average is for achieving this. 

I have left you the average length of a blanket for sizing as well. Of course, you can customize. 

The chain counts given are for the 5.5 mm / I/9 hook. I don’t know the chain counts if you opt to use a different size hook. 

• Baby sized blankets, chain 110. (36” long)
• Toddler sized blankets, chain 110. (36 – 40” long)
• Lapghan blankets, chain 144. (48” long)
• Throw size blankets, chain 182. (60” long)
• Full/Double Blanket (without drape), chain 170. (75” long)
• Full/Double Blanket (with drape), chain 252. (90” long)
• Queen (without drape), chain 180. (80” long)
• Queen (with drape), chain 276. (90” long)
• King (without drape), chain 228 (80” long)
• King (with drape), chain 324. (95” long)

Assign Your Colours

There is one wheel to spin. The wheel has numbers randomly placed from 1 to 6. 

Choose 6 colours. You could even experiment with textured yarns with this as well. Assign each colour a number between 1 and 6. Write that on the ball band. 

Colour 1 = ________________________________

Colour 2 = ________________________________

Colour 3 = ________________________________

Colour 4 = ________________________________

Colour 5 = ________________________________

Colour 6 = ________________________________

If you want to use 2 more colours, assign U PICK or Spin Again as a colour assignment if you wish. If you want less than 6 colours, just spin again if you land on a number that is not using. 

Abbreviations

• Ch = Chain
• Dc = Double Crochet
• Rep = Repeat
• RS = Right Side
• Sc = Single Crochet
• Sk = Skip
• Sp(s) = Space(s)
• Standing sc = Create slip knot and insert onto hook. Insert hook into st. Yoh and pull through st. 2 loops on hook. Yoh and pull through 2 remaining loops.
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• Tr = Treble
• Trfp = Treble Front Post
• WS = Wrong Side

How to Begin Game

Choose the size of the blanket you wish to make to know the starting chain count. 

1. Spin the wheel to determine your colour. 
2. Spin the wheel again for your stitch assignment. 
3. Start your blanket with the beginning row and then proceed into the stitch assignment to complete. Fasten off. 

Starting Chain & Row Needed to Begin

Beginning Chain: Chain in the count you wish. If you are customizing, chain an even number.

1st row: (RS) 1 sc 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to the end. Turn. Mark this row as your right side for future reference.

Depending on the section, you may need to fasten off at the end of the 1st row if you have to start the next section on the RS. If you turn it and begin, you are starting on the WS. If your section is starting on the WS, you can just turn and begin. 

Once the assignment is done. Spin the wheel to determine your next colour. Spin the wheel again for your stitch assignment. Complete your section and fasten off. Then spin again at the end to move onto the next section.

It is very possible that you can spin the same section again and colour again. If you don’t like the option, spin again, no one is watching you.

About These Stitch Combos

If you prefer not to play the game or you prefer to start one of the stitch combinations on your own, the Chain Multiple is 2. 

None of these combinations will compress in tension, so the edging should stay relatively flat. 

If you want a border, circle around with sc evenly spaced up the sides and across the tops and bottoms. Place 3 sc in the corners to keep it laying flat. I’ve not designed a border so you can have creative control over that. 

1st Row Stitch Count = _________________

Stitch 1 – Houndstooth

This stitch combo provides a beautiful texture by removing the obvious lines of crochet. Start on the RS for this section.  

1st row: (RS) With colour, using back loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each across. Turn. 

2nd row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, *1 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn. 

3rd row: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), *1 sc in next st, 1 dc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn. 

4th – 7th rows: Rep 2nd and 3rd row. 

8th row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Fasten off. 

This ends on a WS. 

Optional: If you are loving this stitch, do not use the 8th until the very end of the section, just continue to use 2nd and 3rd rows until you are happy. Then finish with the 8th row. 

Stitch 2 – Clusters

The clusters would look best when you crochet them on the WS. Start on the RS for this section.  

Cluster = 3 dc together in assigned stitch. 

1st row: (RS) With colour, using back loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

2nd row: (WS) Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), sk next st, *cluster in next st, ch 1, sk next st. Rep from * across, 1 dc in last stitch. Turn.

3rd row: (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each cluster and ch sp across. Remember, the last turning chain as 1 dc and ch 1. Fill in space for the ch 1 and the last sc is in the 3rd chain. Turn. 

4th – 5th rows: Rep 2nd and 3rd row. Fasten off at the end of the 5th row. 

This combination ends finishes on the RS. You will see 2 distinct rows of clusters in this section. 

Optional: If you love this stitch, you can continue with the 2nd and 3rd rows until you are happy. 

Stitch 3 – Faux Popcorn

Start on the RS for this section.  

The faux popcorn naturally pops out towards the back, so it’s best to crochet these on the WS. The treble used creates the pop out. 

1st row: (RS) With colour, using back loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

2nd row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first st. *1 tr in next st, 1 sc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn.

3rd row: (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

4th – 7th rows: Rep 2nd and 3rd row. Fasten off at the end of 7th row. 

This combination finishes off at the RS. You will see 3 visible rows of faux popcorn in this section. 

Optional: If you love this stitch, you can continue with 2nd and 3rd rows until you are happy. 

Stitch 4 – Treble Ribs (Similar to Alpine)

This stitch combo starts on the wrong side. 

1st row: (WS) With colour, using front loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

2nd row: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each st across. Turn. 

3rd row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

4th row: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), *1 trfp around next dc post 2 rows below. Sk st on row as trfp counts as that same st. 1 dc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn. 

5th row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

6th row: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), *1 trfp around next tr post 2 rows below. Sk st on row as trfp counts as that same st. 1 dc in next st. Rep from * across. Turn. 

7th row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Fasten off. 

This section ends on WS.  You will see 2 raised rows of trfp at the end of this section. 

Optional: If you love this stitch, you can continue with 6th and 7th rows until you are happy. 

Stitch 5 – Popcorn

This stitch combo starts on the WS. The popcorn naturally pops out towards the front, so it’s best to crochet these on the RS. 

Popcorn = Work 4 dc into the next st, drop the loop from the hook, insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first double crochet of the group, grab the dropped loop and pull through; 1 pc made.

1st row: (WS) With colour, using front loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

2nd row: (RS) Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), *sk next st, 1 popcorn in next st. Ch 2. Rep from * across to last 2 sts, sk 2nd last st, 1 dc in final st. Turn. 

3rd row: (WS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each st and ch sps across. Remember, the last turning chain as  1 dc and ch 1. Fill in space for the ch 1 and the last sc is in the 3rd chain. Turn. 

4th – 5th rows: Rep 2nd and 3rd row. Fasten off after 5th row. 

This section ends on WS. You will see 2 rows of jumping out popcorn. 

Optional: If you love this stitch, you can continue doing the 2nd and 3rd rows until you are happy. 

Stitch 6 – Loop Tracks

This stitch combo starts on the RS. 

1st row: (RS) With colour, using back loops only for this row, attach use standing sc to the first stitch. 1 sc in each st across. Turn. 

2nd row: (WS) Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in each front loop across. Turn.

3rd row: (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in each back loop across. Turn. 

4th – 7th rows: Rep 2nd and 3rd row. Fasten off at end of 7th row. 

This combination finishes off at the RS. You will see 3 visible rows of double. 

Optional: If you love this stitch, you can continue with 2nd and 3rd rows until you are happy.

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