Crochet Icy Window
Shown in the design as Daniel has it. The sizing change be easily changed by adding or subtracting motifs out.
- 60″ by 60″ long.
- 25 motifs with a 5 x 5 square configuration.
- Each motif is 12″ square.
- The motifs just join together as you go. You can make your afghan square or rectangular. The final border rounds will adjust to the configuration you prefer.
- Border is an additional 2″ thickness around.
- New Sew Joining. Join as you go.
- Size I, 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- Bernat Super Value Yarn. Main Colour (MC) White – 4 Skeins.
- Bernat Super Value Yarn. Colour B (B) Sky – 1 Skein.
- Bernat Super Value Yarn. Colour C (C) Peacock – 2 Skein.
- Bernat Super Value Yarn. Colour D (D) Navy– 3 Skeins.
To stay true to Daniel’s original design, the Winter Blizzard Afghan, I had to take the counts of doing his pattern into a square and keeping the look similar. I would say the pattern is about 40% of the original concept with changes to keep the counts going to a square after the middle centre snowflake is achieved.
Using MC Colour, ch 6, join with a sl st to beg ch to form ring.
- Ch 1, 16 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the 1st sc.
- Ch 1, 1 sc into the same stitch as the join, ch 5, sc into the next stitch. “Sc into the next stitch, ch 5, sc into the next stitch. Repeat * around. Join with a sl st to the 1st sc. You will end up with 8 ch-5 spaces.
- Ch 1, * (1 sc, ch 3, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 sc) all into next ch-5 gap space. Ch 2. Repeat * 7 more times. Join with a sl st to beginning sc.
- Ch 1, *3 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, 3 sc in next ch-3 space, 1 sc in ch-2 space. Repeat * around. Join with a sl st to beginning sc.
- Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), *2 dc into the next ch-2 space, ch 3, skip 3 sc and 1 dc into next sc, ch 3 (between two petals). Repeat * around. Join with a sl st to the 3rd chain in the beginning ch-6.
- Jacobs Ladder Round Begins with still using MC for the colour. Ch 1, 4 sc into next ch-3 space. *(2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc) in next ch-3 gap. (2 dc in next st, ch 10, sl st to 1st chain to form loop, 2 dc in next sc – corner made). (1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space. 4 sc in each of the next two ch-3 gaps. Repeat from * around. Final side will end half way across with 4 sc in just one ch-3 space. Join with a sl stitch. Fasten off MC, weave in ends.
- The pattern now gets much easier from this point. Join Colour B to first dc that is just after the ch-10 loop. If you are right handed, it will be to the left of the loop, if you are left handed, it will be to the right of the loop. Ch 3, *1 dc in each of the next stitches across to the next ch-10 loop, ch 10, 1 dc into the next dc on the other side of the loop. Repeat * around. Final will be ch 10 and sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
- Fasten on Colour C to the first dc that is just after the ch-10 space. Ch 3, 1 dc into the same stitch as the join (this makes it have 2 dc into the first dc), *1 dc into each stitch across and on final stitch, put in 2 dc. Ch 10 and skip to next dc on the other side of the space. 2 dc into the first stitch. Repeat * around. Final will be ch 10 and sl st to top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
- Fasten on Colour D. Repeat step 8. Do not fasten off.
- Create the Jacob’s Ladder by feeding the loops through each other. Begin by feeding the second ch-10 through the beginning loop. Then feed the next colour through the new loop formed. Feed the final colour through the final loop. It should look like the picture. The next round will lock in the loops to keep the Jacob’s Ladder intact.
- Continuing with Colour D, Ch 3, 1 dc into the same stitch (counts as 2 dc in first stitch), * 1 dc in each stitch across until the final stitch. Final stitch has 2 dc, (ch 1, 3 sc into final loop with the Jacob’s Ladder, ch 1 – corner formed), 2 dc into the 1st stitch and repeat * around. Final will end just beyond the final corner with a ch 1 and sl stitch to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Colour D, weave in ends.
Using Colour MC. The round uses random mix of half double crochet and half double crochet spikes. HDC Spikes are created by yarn over the hook and insert the hook into any of the rows directly below. Insert hook through project and yarn over. Pull yarn through and give it slack to extend the yarn back to the top of the row. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Crocheters can use their own creativity in this round for how far they want to drop down for the Half Double Crochet Spikes. Being random will give this round an incredible look. You can drop down between 1 – 3 rows below. If you prefer not to have any spikes, you can just use HDC around as per the instructions. We have suggested layers for being random and they truly are random. Tip: The first 3 and last 3 stitch spaces on each side should be a regular HDC as the stitch is too close to the corner to drop straight down.
- Join to Ch-1 space after any corner. Ch 1, hdc into this space, *1 hdc into next 2 stitches. Next stitches to the next corner are your free choice on mixing hdc and hdc spiked stitches. (1 hdc into ch-1 space before corner and 1 hdc into each of the next three stitches, 1 hdc into the next ch-1 space – corner made.) Repeat from * around. Fasten off. Tip: You will have 27 hdc across that doesn’t include the 3 sc in the corners.
First Motif Only
The first motif must be done completely before any other motifs can be joined as you go. The final round of the first motif is super easy and so is the joining method. The trick is to ensure you keep your counts accurate as they join to each other.
- Fasten on MC to middle sc of the 3 in a corner. Ch 1, 1 sc into same space. *Ch 3, skip 1 stitch, sc into the next. Repeat * around. Fasten off and weave in ends. You will end up with 15 ch-3 spaces between each corner.
Rest of Motifs for Joining
For the remainder, you will attach as you go to the neighbours. At most, you will attach to 2 sides. Plan ahead. You can only attach a motif where a motif already has this round completed.
To join as you go, you will substitute all instructions for a side where joining is required. Instead of doing a straight ch-3 instruction. You will do ch 1, sl st to same ch-3 space on the the joining motif, ch 1 and skip next sc and sc into the next.
I would recommend you do one side without joining to start and begin joining on side 2 and do the above instructions of the substitution to join when needed.
The final border is the same for the look but the stitch counts are slightly different to keep the border in balance. I am writing this in a way where your afghan could be square or rectangular.
There are 4 rounds in total that going around the afghan.
- Using Colour B, fasten onto a ch-3 space just before the corner. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 sc into the same space. Skip to next ch-3 space, 3 dc into that space. – corner made) *2 dc into each ch-3 space across, which includes jumping from 1 motif to another all the way to the next corner. Corner has 3 dc in each of the two spaces at the corner. Continue * around. Final will end at the starting corner. Join with a sl stitch to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off.
- Using Colour C, Fasten onto the space between the 3-dc groups in the corner. Ch 1, 2 sc into same space. *1 sc into each stitch to the next corner. Next corner has 3 sc between the 3-dc groups. Repeat * around. Sl st to the beginning sc. Fasten off.
- Using MC, Join to the middle sc in a corner. Ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch, *ch 1, skip next stitch, 1 sc into the next. Repeat * around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. Fasten off.
- Using Colour D, fasten onto any Ch -1 space. Ch 1, (1 sc. Ch 4. Sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
Ch 1. 1 sc – extended picot made) in same sp as last sl st. Skip next sc. *Extended picot in next ch-1 sp. Skip next sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off